Truly impressive, from the heated floor and toilet seat to the craggy rock walls that make you feel as if you’re showering in a grotto. The combination toilet and bidet comes with a panel that determines sprays of water, and another panel shifts the colors of the translucent, glowing sink and bathtub from blue to red to green. It took another call to housekeeping, though, to learn that the shallow wooden contraption we thought was a shoe box beneath the sink was our “trash can.

Without the bustle of thousands of visitors, it becomes possible to breathe a bit more deeply, the air tinged with smoke from a controlled burn in the forest below, and dream a bit about the past, when hiring a relatively obscure artist to spend more than a decade carving a sculpture into the remote Black Hills seemed like a no-brainer.

SOMEWHERE between the grilled watermelon with panela cheese and my second taco de cochinita — a Yucatecan taco stuffed with pork, black beans and pickled onions — I put down my fork. I couldn’t eat another bite.